Directions on how to get there. The related reasons on top for our hesitation to go is the relative distance and rumored parking problem in Lucban. Lucban is not exactly accessible, not along the main roads. Either through the national highway at San Pablo-Lucena, or through the backroads of Liliw-Majayjay, Lucban is relatively secluded. However, because we’ve tackled the much lengthier drive to Bicol/Donsol, and have explored the San Pablo – Liliw – Majayjay route during the Laguna Loop trip, Lucban appeared less and less secluded. It was time to go witness the colorful fiesta celebration of Lucban, in honor of San Isidro Labrador, patron saint of farmers.

We left Manila around 4:00 a.m., passing through the South Luzon Expressway (SLE), then Sto. Tomas (Batangas) and going in San Pablo City. After San Pablo City, around 30 minutes through the towns of Nagcarlan (famous for its underground cemetery), Liliw (famous for its footwear) and Majayjay, which is the last town of Laguna going to Lucban. We arrived in Lucban a little past seven in the morning.

Finding a parking spot. Then there’s the parking issue. We’ve heard countless horror stories about walking long distances, as the main road of the town is closed during Pahiyas. They say it’s a long walk, and I’m reminded of how Cebu closes the city roads during Sinulog. Now, if you’re not inside Cebu City before the roads close for the Sinulog, I’d say that’s a legitimate long-distance walk. The walk from the parking area to the center of the Pahiyas in Lucban, on the other hand, is a piece of cake by way of comparison. So, you see, take what travelers say with a grain of salt, including what we say here. Experience is relative; the more relatives you have, the better (or worse) the experience. Kidding aside, the walk from the parking area in Lucban during Pahiyas is easily manageable.

We could have left Manila after breakfast, which would still have given us enough time to see the colorful displays, watch the parade and the evening festivities. However, we left real early to get a good parking spot, which paid off because we were right at the spot where they closed the road.

Kamay ni Hesus Shrine and the Lucban Church. Just one way in and out the town, we were made to understand. We parked at the side going to Majayjay and Liliw, both towns of Laguna, so we cannot cross and proceed to the Kamay ni Hesus Shrine, also in Lucban. That means if you intend to visit the shrine, park at the side going to Lucena. Basically the same itinerary or route of the visita iglesia for the Laguna Loop (we planned to include the Lucban Church, with the first church built in 1595 and the present church completed in 1738, but decided to reserve it for the Pahiyas).

Breakfast at Buddy’s. No breakfast stop at the SLE because we planned to experience the pansit habhab and Lucban longganisa, with the Buddy’s restaurant being highly recommended. Pansit habhab or pansit Lucban is meant to be eaten without utensils, just plain-flavored noodles on freshly-cut banana leaf, with a sprinkle of vinegar. The photo of pansit Lucban below, served at Buddy’s, is obviously not the plain variety.

Buddy’s in Lucban is right in front of the municipal hall and the fountain/statue for Jose Rizal, a minute or two from the Lucban Church. No sweat if Lucban is far away because there are Buddy’s restaurant branches in Tomas Morato Avenue in Quezon City and Kakarong Street in Makati City.

The Pahiyas Festival. It is said that the tradition of thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest existed even before the coming of the Spaniards and, obviously, the introduction of San Isidro Labrador as patron saint came with the Spaniards. Local inhabitants would display their farm products on doors and windows, creating a mix of colors. Multi-colored tomatoes, coconuts, bananas, rice, string beans and a whole lot more. Then came the more colorful component, the kiping.

The kiping is basically colored ground rice molded into various shapes and sizes. The kiping could be grouped into something that resembles a chandelier, called the arangya, or various flowers, including the sunflower. And, yes, it is edible, though you have to cook it first. We bought a box of kiping (in addition to the other items we bought in Lucban, so we can say, ahem, that we contributed to Lucban’s local economy) but we never got the interest to cook and eat it. I mean, how can we eat a work of art? It is meant to be admired, in our opinion, rather than to be consumed.

Pahiyas means “decor”. The Pahiyas Festival, however, is more than just the colorful decorations on windows, doors and even the whole facade of houses. It is more than just a tourist attraction. The Pahiyas Festival is a form of thanksgiving to a Higher Being for a bountiful harvest in the past year and a prayer for more bounty in the years to come.

A trip to Lucban for the Pahiyas Festival is never meant to be quick. The adventure will eat up a day of one’s hectic schedule. It is meant to be leisurely. Secluded open roads. Zigzags and turns. Green nature along the way, with the majestic Mt. Banahas dominating the view. The whiff of pristine, fresh air. Capped with the colors and tradition of the Pahiyas Festival. You should go next year.

Sinulog (Cebu City). – The Sinulog dance ritual, which is in honor of the miraculous Santo Niño or Infant Jesus, is held every third Sunday of January. I understand it wasn’t always that way, and it was celebrated to coincide with the enthronement of the Santo Niño image at its shrine on April 28, 1565. Read more about Sinulog festival from a previous entry (with one great video, kudos to Jerrold Tarog) in this site, or go to the the official Sinulog Festival website.

Ati-Atihan (Kalibo, Aklan). – This is also a feast in honor of the Santo Niño, also celebrated on the 3rd Sunday of January (since the feast is celebrated at the same time with Sinulog of Cebu City, you better make up your mind which feast, and street dancing, to attend). Ati-atihan is from the “Atis” — the aboriginal Negritos in the area. The Ati-atihan, just like the Sinulog, has become more famous for its mardi gras. Read more at the Ati-Atihan website.

Pahiyas Festival (Lucban, Quezon). – From the website of the Pahiyas festival: “The San Isidro Pahiyas Festival held every May 15 has become one of the country’s tourist attractions prompting the Department of Tourism to list down Lucban as a tourist town and a cultural heritage site. During the San Isidro Pahiyas Festival, each household tries to outdo each other in friendly competition as they vie for honor of recognizing their creativity. As incentives to their effort, prizes were given to the winning pahiyas based on a given criteria. This accounts for some of the most curious décor that the unstoppable spirit of the festival tends to show. Decking the hall or decorating the wall with “Kiping” and agricultural harvest is what “PAYAS” or “PAHIYAS” literally means.”

Feast of the Black Nazarene (Quiapo, Manila). – The feast of the miraculous Black Nazarene, with the Quiapo Church as its home, is celebrated on the second Tuesday of January. Thousands of devotees flock to attend the procession of the Black Nazarene, trying to touch the carriage or even the ropes used to pull the carriage.

Obando Fertility Rites (Obando, Bulacan). – Part of the festival is the dance of childless women, mostly with their partners, in honor of three patron saints — Santa Clara (patron saint of the childless), San Pascual Baylon (a 16th century shepherd who danced his prayers and became a model of religious virtue) and our Lady of Salambao (the image of the Immaculate Conception was fished out by a fisherman, with the use of a salambao net). The festival is celebrated on on May 17, 18, and 19.

I must say that fiesta celebration in the provinces or probinsya is more traditional, illustrating Filipino hospitality at its best. There are games and activities for everyone. The celebrations serve as thanksgiving for the bountiful harvest. Each household prepares food for guests. Even uninvited visitors are welcome.

In our town, a fiesta is being celebrated on almost each day of the month of May. Here’s the more interesting part — since the fiesta is usually a 2-day celebration (the fiesta proper and the viesperas, which is the day before the fiesta proper), the viesperas in one barangay falls on the fiesta proper in another barangay. Imagine the festivities if you factor in the rest of the barangays in the neighboring towns. So, if you’re a traveler, try bringing wash and wear clothes, then go through the different barangays during the month of May. You won’t get hungry, most probably. =)