Sounds really deep, huh? These are the words of a wise tortoise, named Master Oogway in the animated movie Kung Fu Panda (kids seem to have this tendency of watching the flavor-of-the-month cartoon over and over again, wait till you have your own).

15th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

That line doesn’t squarely apply to what we’re about to discuss, but it somehow is related. Besides, it’s more impressive to start an article with a nice quote.

Anyway, what I’m trying to drive at is this – we sometimes discover things that we won’t have discovered if we didn’t get lost. Doesn’t make any sense? Let’s put it another way. I’m sure we all experienced a time when we keep on looking for something, but we can’t find it. We spend the whole day looking for it, but we still can’t find what we’re looking for (I guess this is common, even U2 titled a song from this). Then the moment we stop looking for it, we find it.

Have that kind of experience? Good. It’s a bit like that, except that in this case, it’s about something that you weren’t looking for in the first place. Still doesn’t make any sense? Let me just describe it.

Clark Cemetery in Clarkfield, Pampanga

It was a sunny morning, a leisurely drive into the labyrinth of roads within Clarkfield (Pampanga) after a hearty breakfast at the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX). We were looking for the Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (DMIA), a task which should be easy considering that we’ve been here a couple of times. That includes visits to Montevista/Mimosa, Clearwater Country Club and, of course, the fun experience at the Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta. Incidentally, the 15th International Hot Air Balloon Festival, scheduled from 11-14 February 2010, is fast approaching. You should go there.

That time was the first we’re actually going inside DMIA. We made it a point to leave early from Metro Manila, even if the DMIA is just an hour’s drive away, to make allowance for the possibility that we’ll get lost. And got lost, we did, which is not really a bad thing because, one, we had plenty of time to kill, and, two, we stumbled on something interesting.

Death March Marker in Clark, Pampanga

But let’s backtrack a bit. As noted in a previous article, it’s easy to know that Mt. Samat is near — you’ll see the Dambana ng Kagitingan even from a distance and you’ll see the Death March markers along the way.

When Bataan fell on April 9, 1942, it was just a matter of time that the last Filipino-American stronghold in Corregidor would fall. The Philippines would commemorate April 9 as an annual holiday – Araw ng Kagitingan or Day of Valor, also known as the Bataan and Corregidor Day. On May 6, 1942, after months of heavy bombing, the little island of Corregidor surrendered.

Around 75,000 American and Filipino soldiers surrendered. Only around 54,000 reached the destination after what is now infamously known as the Death March.

Many more died in the prison camps. The more than 100-kilometer walk was characterized by inhumane physical abuse and murder (click here for more story).

Today, the path of suffering is marked by white markers, designating the kilometer number. The intersection that leads to Mt. Samat is Kilometer 19 (different in usage from the regular Kilometer 0).

Unknown Dead at Clark Cemetery

Kilometer 100 is in Clark, marking the entrance of the Clark Cemetery. This cemetery is the final resting place of around 7,559 individuals (World War II casualties were relocated in Fort McKinley, which lies between Makati City and Taguig City) — those who died from the Philippine-American War, Spanish-American War, their civilian family members, some remains of non-WWII Japanese civilians, Philippine Scouts, Chinese/Vietnamese refugees.

More than 1,600 individuals are still unidentified, their graves simply marked as “Unknown”. It’s no surprise that many of us wouldn’t know this place exists, except by accident. (Or, ahem, when you’re subscribed to this blog.)

Dambana ng Kagitingan, Mt. Samat, Bataan

At around 8 a.m., the question popped up – what are we going to do today? Equally as unexpected, the answer came easily – let’s go to Mt. Samat in Bataan. It’s a historical place. Its history is closely intertwined with that of Corregidor Island. And since we’ve long been to Corregidor, it’s only right that we take a trip to the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor), found on top of Mt. Samat in the town of Pilar, province of Bataan.

We’ve been to farther places in the Philippines, as far as the southern cities and towns of Mindanao, but I’ve never been to Bataan. I don’t know the way going there, except the hunch that since it’s not towards the direction of Baguio, it could only be through Subic. Not knowing the directions, however, is never a hindrance in our wanderings.

Discovering the way, when already traveling towards a destination, is equally part of the journey.

So less than an hour after deciding to take the trip, we had breakfast, took a shower, packed little snacks for the road a bottle of water. We didn’t bring any change of clothes because we planned to go home in the evening.

Around 9 in the morning, we headed off for the North Luzon Expressway. We had no concrete idea which roads to pass, where to have lunch, where to drop by or where to have our stops. We don’t even know where exactly in Bataan we could find the Dambana ng Kagitingan. All we know is our destination – Mt. Samat in Bataan.

Directions here. More photos at Gallery. See Map

The Death March

It’s easy to know that Mt. Samat is near — you’ll see the  Dambana ng Kagitingan even from a distance. And you’ll see the Death March markers along the way (see directions here).

Death March Marker at the intersection to Mt. Samat, Bataan

When Bataan fell on April 9, 1942, it was just a matter of time that the last Filipino-American stronghold in Corregidor would fall. The Philippines would commemorate April 9 as an annual holiday – Araw ng Kagitingan or Day of Valor, also known as the Bataan and Corregidor Day. On May 6, 1942, after months of heavy bombing, the little island of Corregidor surrendered.

Around 75,000 American and Filipino soldiers surrendered.

Only around 54,000 reached the destination after what is now infamously known as the Death March. Many more died in the prison camps.

The prisoners marched from Bataan to prison camps in San Fernando (Pampanga) and Capas (Tarlac). The more than 100-kilometer walk was characterized by inhumane physical abuse and murder. Deprivation of food and water, throat slitting, casual shooting, bayonet stabbing, beheading, disembowelment. Those who helped the sick and the injured are attacked by the Japanese military. They are “more fortunate”, though, for those they tried to help are killed.

Today, the path of suffering is marked by white markers, designating the kilometer number. The intersection that leads to Mt. Samat is kilometer 19 (see also Kilometer 100 in Clark).

Philippine-Japanese Friendship Tower in Bagac

After visiting the Dambana ng Kagitigan, which we shall discuss more later, we took a left turn at the intersection of kilometer 16 marker, then headed straight to Morong. It seems a more circuitous way to Subic but since it’s a road we haven’t traveled before, it’s fair game.

I’m not sure if Robel intentionally made us pass through Morong, even if the longer route, because a welcome surprise awaits. From the intersection at Mt. Samat, the countdown of the Death March markers continued, ending at the Philippine-Japan Friendship Tower in the town of Bagac, Bataan.

It’s hard to miss the the Philippine-Japan Friendship Tower. The ghostly white-colored Death March markers, which appear to float with the green foliage background, count down to this very spot. This is ground zero. More importantly, the Tower lies in the middle of a major road fork. Go left and head on to the town proper of Bagac. Head right and you’re on your way to the town of Morong, then Subic.

Let’s backtrack a bit and talk about the central topic of this post — the Dambana ng Kagitingan.

Dambana ng Kagitingan: Our Mission is to Remember

Altar Hall at Dambana ng Kagitingan

There are three places of interest at the shrine. First is the altar hall, found right after going in from the gate. Second is the area around the base of the Memorial Cross. Third is the view from the top of the Memorial Cross.

Entrance fee is P20 for Filipinos, P10 for children, P30 for foreigners and P10 for car parking. There’s a parking space at the gate and another parking area at the top of Mount Samat, just beside the foot of the huge cross.

Touring hour is from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., but the elevator operator takes a lunch break, from 12 noon to 1 p.m. We arrived at around 12:02, which means we have to wait for a while and miss our lunch date in Subic.

We didn’t know there’s an elevator that takes you from the foot of the cross up to the arms of the cross (another P10 for the elevator ride). Not for the claustrophobic. Not for those scared of heights. The view from up there is truly breathtaking, until you remember that you’re standing on a small piece of enclosure standing 555 meters above sea level and constructed in 1970.

Wing of Memorial Cross, Dambana ng mga Bayani, Bataan

It’s easy to be lost in the beauty of this place. Great view of the Bataan Peninsula. Cool air even if the sun’s heat is biting. It’s easy to forget why this shrine is here.

The huge granite walls of the altar hall, just below the huge cross, speaks of the Battle of Bataan. It’s a story of great sacrifice and extraordinary courage. Our veterans have fought and died here. All they ask is for us to remember. So we reproduce the entire story, as etched on the granite walls –

The Battle of Bataan

On this ground gallant men chose to die rather than surrender.

View from Memorial Cross, Mt. Samat, Bataan

From all corners of the Philippines they came, youthful and brave to make their last stand in Bataan against an implacable enemy which had marched through Asia. What transpired was a ferocious combat between raw ill-equipped recruits and seasoned well-armed troops.

On these tablets is recorded the epic, the truly unifying experience, that was Bataan. Let all who read this take  pride in the courage of our race.

The Battle. The enemy had secured the beachheads on Lingayen Gulf and the West Coast of Tayabas Province. The 14th Japanese Imperial Army under the command of Lieutenant General Masaharu Homma now started a gigantic pincer attack. The fate of Luzon was sealed.

Fighting valiantly, the United States Army Forces in the Far East (USAFFE) led by General Douglas MacArthur was thrown back in fierce actions by the implacable advance of the enemy. Retreat to Bataan became inevitable. On this Peninsula the defending forces, following War Plan Orange 3, regrouped for a last stand against the invaders.

Delaying actions were fought to permit withdrawal to the Peninsula, the bloodiest of which was fought by the 8th and 21st Divisions on the Porac-Guagua Line.

Foot of the Memorial Cross, Mt Samat, Bataan

The 26th Cavalry Regiment protected the west flank of the 21st Division as the entire USAFFE struggled from South and North toward the Layac Junction, the only approach to Bataan. Delaying forces held its line on open and unprepared ground from 1 January to 5 January. They stood fast against massive enemy aerial and artillery bombardment, concentrated tank attacks and banzai charges. Casualties on both sides were heavy.

The first defensive line in Bataan was the Hermosa-Dinalupihan Line where on 6 January 1942 the 71st Division, the American 31st Infantry Regiment and the 26th Cavalry Regiment fought off the pursuing enemy.

The aim of the War Plan Orange 3 was to resist the enemy on the Bataan Peninsula to the limits of human endurance.

The main battle position of the USAFFE, the Abucay-Morong Line, was attacked along its eastern flank on 9 January, but was repulsed by the 57th Regimental Combat Team, reinforced by the 21st Infantry of the 21st Division.

On 14 January, the Japanese attacked the boundary of the 41st and 51st Divisions. The 43rd Infantry, holding the left flank of the 41st Division, reinforced by the 23rd Infantry, 21st Division, sharply refused its flank. The 51st Infantry holding the right flank of the 51st Division withdrew, creating a gap through which the enemy advanced to the Salian River, but was discovered by a patrol of the 21st Division. Elements of the 21st Division were rushed to the Salian River Valley and after a savage fight, succeeded in throwing back the enemy farther to the west. The enemy surprised and routed the 53rd Infantry, penetrating deep behhind the Main Battle Position along the Abo-Abo River Valley. The enemy advance was help up by combined elements of the 21st Division and the 11 Corps Reserve, the 31st and the 51st Divisions on the Bani-Guitol forest area.

The American 31st Infantry and 45th Infantry, Philippine Scouts, succeeded in partially restoring the abandoned 51st Division Line.

On 15 January, the Morong Sector, defended by the 1st Regular Division, reinforced, came under heavy bombardment, but the line held.

A few days later the enemy penetrated through a huge gap in the Silanganan Natib Area and established a road block on the Mauban Ridge, thus cutting off the 1st Regular Division from the Rear Area. Gravely threatened, elements of the 71st and 91st Divisions and the 2nd PC Regiment repeatedly attacked the road block but failed to dislodge the enemy.

View of Bataan Peninsula from Mt Samat

Although the II Corps Sector had prevented a similar envelopment in the Salian River Battle, the 1 Corps Position was now untenable. The Abucay-Morong Line was abandoned on 14 January. The Orion-Bagac Line was established two days later.

Again in a desperate attempt to outflank the I Corps, the enemy landed crack units on the West Coast of Southern Bataan. The aim was to outflank and to isolate the front line units from headquarters and supplies.

There were three ferocious engagements in the Lapiay-Longosk Awayan Points Area, fought from 23 to 29 January; in Quinauan-Aglaloma Points Area, fought from 23 January to 8 February; and Silajim-Anyasan Points, fought from 27 January to 13 February. Of the 2000 enemy troops committed to these battles, only 34 wounded soldiers returned to their lines.

On 27 January, enemy troops were discovered in the rear of the Orion-Bagac Line, the Tuol River Valley behind the 11th Regular Division and in the Gogo-Cotar River Valley behind the 1st Regular Division. The series of engagements to eliminate these enemy salients became known as the Battle of the Pockets, fought from 27 January through 17 February. Of the 2,000 Japanese troops committed to this battle, only 377 enemy soldiers were reported to have escaped.

Shadow of Memorial Cross at Dambana ng mga Bayani, Bataan

After the Battles of the Points, Pockets, and Trail 2, which were brilliant triumphs of the USAFFE, the enemy withdrew to regroup their forces and to wait for more reinforcements.

Meanwhile, on 12 March, General MacArthur, his family and some staff officers of the USAFFE left on four PT Boats for

Mindanao from where they were flown to Australia. MacArthur’s departure was the end of the USAFFE. On 22 March, the defending army was renamed United States Forces in the Philippines (USFIP) under the command of Lieutenant General Jonathan M. Wainwright.

The Japanese High Command reinforced Homma’s 14th Imperial Japanese Army, and toward the end of March the enemy struck. The entire Orian-Bagac Line was subjected to vicious artillery and aerial bombardment. About a hundred and fifty artillery pieces of various calibers concentrated in front of Mount Samat. The enemy opened fire at 1000 hours on Good Friday, 3 April. Aerial bombing was equally intense. The 21st and 41st Divisions came under incredibly savage bombardment, turning the Mount Samat area into an inferno. The forest was set on fire. Men were buried alive in their foxholes and every inch of ground was covered by enemy fire. The dust, flames and smoke darkened the mountains. The USAFFE Artillery, which had backed the defenders, was immobilized.

Memorial Cross at Dambana ng Kagitingan, Mount Samat

At 1500 hours the enemy infantry spearheaded by tanks which rolled over the bodies of the dead and living Filino defenders, broke through the Main Line of Resistance of the 41st Infantry at Trail 29. Along Trail 6, the enemy infantry also spearheaded by tanks crashed through the Main Line of Resistance of the 21st Infantry. By nightfall, the enemy had penetrated about 1,500 yards behind the Main Line of Resistance of the 41st Infantry, 1,000 yards behind the 23rd Infantry.

On 4 April, the enemy infantry attacked the 23rd Infantry, crashing through the line along Trail 4. The enemy swerved toward the east and struck the flank of the 22nd Infantry. By nighttime, the enemy had penetrated 1,000 yards behind the Main Battle Position of the 23rd. By 6 April Mount Samat was surrounded. But the 21st Division, reforming its lines to resemble a horshoe, still held the slopes of the Mountain. The Battle of Mount Samat was called the most vicious encounter of the Second Battle of Bataan.

On 9 April 1942, at high  noon, Major General Edward P. King, Jr., Senior American Officer on the battle-torn peninsula, surrendered the Bataan Forces. The infamous Death March began, an ordeal which annealed the Filipino spirit.

The night before the surrender a series of earthquakes rocked Bataan, two of which were on nature’s making. In the morning heavy rain fell. Then the sun shone.

The heroic resistance of the defenders of Bataan had wrecked the time-table of the enemy.

Let friend and foe recognize the martial spirit that defeat could not break. To the memory of these brave warriors, whose blood soaked every rock of this land so that this nation might endure, this humble shrine is consecrated.

OUR MISSION IS TO REMEMBER.

Early morning at Manila Yacht Club

The violent history of Corregidor may be lost when one sees the still waters softly hugging its beachhead, surrounding the port where the tourist ferry docks. The calm is further heightened by the sight of yachts that seem to be sleeping at the Manila Yacht Club, where the tourist ferry leaves early in the morning from Manila Bay to embark in a 45-minute trip.

Going to Corregidor. Many foreigners and balikbayans visit Corregidor, so it’s always best to book for the tour in advance. While the island could be accessed through a pumpboat in Bataan, the ferries and buses that come with the guided tour make the trip more convenient. The first of two trips leave around 8 a.m. from Manila. You could wait at restaurant complex beside the port (Jollibee, Starbucks, etc). Once you’ve checked in, no need to rush because the seats are numbered and assigned in advance. The 45-minute boat trip isn’t always smooth, so better take in biyahilo medicine an hour before the trip, just to be sure you won’t be defeated by the waves and throw up.

Corregidor Island is near Manila, just 48 kilometers west of the Philippines’ capital. Shaped like a tadpole, it’s 3 miles long and 1 ½ miles at its widest point. Yet, I would surmise that not a majority of Filipinos have seen this historic island. The difficulty in setting foot on Corregidor, while based on reasons other than economic, was experienced by the Japanese forces during the Second World War. Corregidor, the last to fall before the surrender to the Japanese, was heavily armed and fortified. It’s also one of the most heavily bombed islands on earth during the war.

Corregidor is a Spanish term which means corregir — “to correct”. The Spanish lighthouse and the marker nearby, as well as the flagpole at Topside taken from a Spanish warship, are witnesses to the fact that before Spain ceded the Philippines to the United States in 1898, after the Spanish-American War, Corregidor Island used to be a checkpoint for vessels entering Manila Bay. A marker reads in part: “Corregidor Island became a part of the Spanish Crown on May the 19th 1571 after its occupation by the dauntless Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, who found the City of Manila. Due to its strategic position, Corregidor, which was a Spanish island for 327 years until May 2, 1898, served as a fortress, guarding Manila Bay.”

Old Spanish Llighthouse

Ruins of Corregidor. The Americans designated three areas when they took over Corregidor — the Bottomside, the Middleside and, as you may have guessed it, the Topside. At the Topside could be found the ruins of the parade grounds, Cine Corregidor, the golf course, and the Mile-Long Barracks (near the Pacific War Memorial, photos here). There’s a tribute at the parade’s ground to the men and women who recaptured Corregidor. It’s here that Gen. MacArthur uttered after recapturing “The Rock” (no, not “I shall return”, words he uttered in Australia after leaving Corregidor): “I see the old flagpole still stands. Have your troops hoist the colors to its peak and let no enemy ever haul them down.” Here’s the Mile-Long Barracks, photographed from the middle:

Batteries of Corregidor. By “battery”, we’re not talking about something that makes your toy run. A battery, in military parlance, is an emplacement for pieces of artillery. The United States didn’t waste time in rebuilding Corregidor as a defensive fortification. The regular tour in Corregidor would bring you to four batteries.  One would easily be impressed with the size of these artillery pieces — that is, until one gets to learn the history of Corregidor. We’ll get into that in a while. Let’s go back to the four batteries you’ll encounter on a regular tour — Battery Way, Battery Geary, Battery Crocket and Battery Hearn. Nothing substantial is left of Battery Geary, so let’s focus on the three others.

Mortars at Battery Way

Battery Way, with its four 12-inch mortars, was constructed between 1904 and completed in 1914. It can fire up to 8.3 miles (13.135 kms) in any direction. You’ll also find a tribute to Major William “Wild Bill” Massello, Jr., who led his men to repair the battery and continue firing at the heavy assault of the Japanese forces. Battery Way was the last big gun to continue firing, even during the morning of May 6, 1942 — the day Corregidor finally fell (at noon). It had been firing for 11 straight hours amidst constant heavy firing from the Japanese, killing over 70% of those manning the station and seriously wounding Major Massello. He is thought to be the most decorated soldier of the Philippine campaign.

Battery Crocket, Corregidor Island

Battery Crockett is one of the 12-inch “disappearing” emplacements. Battery Hearn’s two 12-inch guns were originally named Battery Smith Gun No. 1 and 2, the “Smith Brothers”. The guns have a range of 17 miles (7.4 kms), capable of reaching Bataan and Cavite. In February 1942, it commenced almost daily counter-battery fire against the Japanese in Naic and Puerto Azul (in Cavite). It also tried to halt the Japanese advance to Bataan. After April 9, 1942, both guns fell silent as it’s location is highly visible from Bataan, perfect for target shooting by the Japanese. Battery Crockett could be seen in this photo (right), as well as Battery Hearn (left).

Battery Hearn, Corregidor Island

Malinta Tunnel. Constructed in 1922 and completed in 1932, the tunnel complex provided a bombproof shelter. “Linta” means leeches and “malinta” roughly means full of leeches, but but we didn’t encounter any.  There’s a lights and sound show at Malinta Tunnel, called “The Malinta Experience”, for 150 pesos. You have the option of incorporating this in your tour and I suggest that you take this. Your ticket will reveal that the show is written and directed by National Artist Lamberto Avellana, as his final tribute to valor and peace. Video-taking is prohibited, but pictures are allowed.

On 30 December 1941, Manuel L. Quezon and Sergio Osmena were inaugurated into their second term as President and Vice-President of the Philippine Commonwealth at the west entrance of Malinta Tunnel.

Lunch at Corregidor

Hungry in Corregidor? We were told by our tour guide that with the additional personnel, including the wounded, brought in from Bataan after its fall on April 9, 1942, the food stockpile rapidly ran out. Tourists, on the other hand, would probably feel a bit hungry as the tour winds up around lunch, but while the soldiers back in 1942 would probably duck for cover to get food, tourists would be treated to buffet lunch, not in Malinta Tunnel, but at Corregidor Inn. There are a number of buses full of tourists and each bus has a different schedule for the Lights and Sounds Show at Malinta Tunnel. That’s 30 minutes gap between buses, which is the approximate time difference each bus would arrive for lunch. So better come prepared.

Remember the significance of the place. Bataan and Corregidor Day, or the Araw ng Kagitingan (a regular national holiday on April 9), is a commemoration of the bravery, courage and heroism of those who fought and perished in Bataan and Corregidor.

See map and directions

Brothers in Arms statue, Corregidor Island

After Pearl Harbor, the Japanese air attack crippled the US air force and navy stationed in the Philippines. By January 1941, the Japanese had occupied Manila and in March, Gen. Douglas MacArthur, the commanding General of the USAFFE, left for Australia. The remaining forces in Bataan (see Dambana ng Kagitingan at Mt. Samat, Bataan) surrendered to the Japanese on April 9, 1942. If you’ve noticed, that’s the date of the Araw ng Kagitingan.

But Corregidor kept on fighting for one more month. If you’re the enemy and this piece of rock stands in the way of totally conquering a country, what would you do? Bomb the place to hell. And that’s exactly what the Japanese did. Corregidor is the second most bombed island during World War II, next to Malta. On May 6, 1942, Corregidor surrendered.

Eternal Flame of Freedom, Corregiro Pacific War Memorial

The Pacific War Memorial stands at the Topside of Corregidor Island (read more of Corregidor here). It’s a reminder of the bravery and heroism of the combined US and Philippine forces against Japanese aggression. It’s also a reminder of the suffering and horrors that war brings, something which the world still sees up to this day.

At the end of the Pacific War Memorial is the Eternal Flame of Freedom, a steel sculpture erected on the cliff overlooking the tail of the island. The monument has this inscription at the bottom: “To live in Freedom Light is the Right of Mankind.”

After this generation, what happened in Corregidor, and the Philippines in general, during the war with Japan would be reduced to something read in elementary textbooks. Today’s generation could cling to that memory through the heart-wrenching stories of grandparents who fought — many of whom died — during the dark days of Japanese occupation. Our generation must not forget the sacrifice waged and blood spilled in Corregidor and elsewhere in the Philippines. So, while the big guns in Corregidor might look impressive during your visit to this historic place, remember that the bravery of those who fought the invaders is even more impressive. Let’s not forget what they fought, and died, for.

See map and directions